Fall on the southwest side of the Baja Peninsula stays in the 70s until about December when the first winter storm or two brings colder weather to the region. October and November are when the summer heat and humidity has given way cooler, more pleasant days. Going into the winter months, Todos Santos is still nice although a bit cooler, and with the possibility of being a little damp from seasonal storms, still December and January are great months for surf in this part of the state.
The whale watching season in Baja California runs from November to April, when gray and humpback whales make their yearly migration to these shores to breed and mate. Near the beaches of Todos Santos whales can often be spotted grooming themselves—scraping along the steep sandy bottoms to clean barnacles off their tough skin.
During the fall in Todos Santos you miss the local summer tourists who are already back to school for the year, but arrive before the snowbirds who flock to Baja Sur in the winter looking for warmer weather. It’s a mellow time to be in town and easier to mix and mingle with locals, both Mexican and foreign.
While Baja isn’t particular well known for its Day of the Dead celebrations you will still find that local families in Todos Santos visit family graveyards, decorate homemade altars and eat pan de muerto with their hot chocolate. Head to the neighboring town of La Paz (two hours away) for an even bigger celebration of this important Mexican Holiday.
Because the fall is not the height of the tourist season, hotel and accomodation rates are generally much lower than in the summer, winter or spring. Todos Santos’ famous Hotel California, for example, has rates that are about US$60 cheaper during September and October than December or July.
Todos Santos is adding to its culinary options every year. The Todos Santos Brewing company opened up in June of this year serving 12 of their own beers (brewed on the premises), artisanal sodas and a lunch and dinner menu that includes vegan options. Renowned Mexican chef Javier Plascencia also opened Jazamango at the beginning of 2017 with a Baja-Med menu that focuses on freshness and seasonality.
Todos Santos Brewing, Calle Obregón #12, 23300 Todos Santos, B.C.S., +52 612 145 2023
The newly opened Hotel San Cristóbal provides beachside luxury in Todos Santos with 32 rooms, a swimming pool, restaurant and bar on the premises. Hip, kitschy and stylish, the hotel is brought to you by Texas hotelier Liz Lambert and located on a simple fishing beach called Punta Lobos 15 minutes south of town. Even if you don’t stay the night, come out for dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, fearlessly led by Mexican chef Edgar Palau.