Get a taste of Beirut’s civil war history at Falafel M. Sahyoun
Few street food places in Beirut have such a legendary past as M. Sahyoun. In fact, this spot is not one, but two shops right next to each other, owned by two brothers who make some of the best falafel in the city. During the Lebanese Civil War, they operated one shop in Christian East Beirut and one in Muslim West Beirut, and family members had to cross the Green Line, a no man’s zone between the two, to get from one to the other. Today their shops sit right along where the Green Line used to run, but relations are definitely not cordial – the two are no longer on speaking terms and have become rivals. Although they supposedly make the same falafel recipe, word on the street is that the older shop, the one featuring blue lettering, is slightly better.