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Jazz Grant, 'Dudus', 2016
Jazz Grant, 'Dudus', 2016
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The Emerging London Designers To Watch in 2016

Picture of Julia Gardener
Updated: 24 October 2016
Readers will be hard pressed to find a city which rivals London for exciting new fashion talent. Home to leading fashion schools which include Central St Martins, London College of Fashion, Ravensbourne and Kingston, the city produces future leaders in the industry year on year. Ahead of London Fashion Week, The Culture Trip brings you the emerging designers to know about.

Oksana Anilionyte

Inspired by her work with scientists, the RCA graduate aims to “merge fashion with innovative materials and technology”. Anilionyte creates the most contemporary of designs, with a groundbreaking Fluid’Sense collection that included liquid clothes. The designer explains how “body temperature and natural perspiration stimulate polymer based fluid prints that adapt to human body shapes,” with the garments becoming much like “a second skin.” The unusual materials result in a futuristic kind of glamour that definitely provokes a curiosity, both about what Anilionyte will do next and how unusual that dripping drapery must feel.

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Jazz Grant

Jazz Grant is a menswear designer from LCF. Her Jamaican heritage plays a key role in the inspiration behind her last collection, ‘Dudus’, which takes its name from an infamous Jamaican drug lord. To escape the police force, Dudus often disguised himself as a woman. This technique has caught on for many Jamaican gangsters today, inspiring Grant’s collection. A cascade of ruffles and delicate embroidery adorn the boxy and oversized shapes, imagining “a man adorned in ferociously feminine attire as means of disguise but still withholding an undoubtedly masculine demeanor.”

Follow on instagram: @jazzgrant1

Jazz Grant, 'Dudus' collection
Jazz Grant, ‘Dudus’ collection

Stefanie Tschirky

“My design world is driven to find the beautiful, ordered, and unpredictable moments of complexity in the study of the field of mathematic” explains the Swiss RCA graduate. In her last collection, Tschirky wanted to see if it was possible “to create the ‘perfect’ dress, silhouette and line with the help of science.” The project combined theories such as the Golden Ratio Theory and the Chaos Theory, and resulted in her “creating a ‘mixture’, which I was able to apply on threads and cling film. With the help of this ‘mixture’ I was able to create garments which seem to seal the body.” The result is unusual silhouettes which challenge the traditional shapes of garments, creating a dynamic relationship with the wearers’ body.

Follow on instagram: @s_tschirky

Scottacus Anthony

Having previously worked at fashion powerhouses such as Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Gareth Pugh, the LCF graduates’ collection was shown in the LCF Press Show at London Fashion Week 2015 and closed the show at Fashion Week in Prague 2015. His most recent collection, Chevaleresque, is inspired by strong female leaders, aiming to capture “the essence of empowered women, while keeping a hint of soft femininity.” This is achieved through thin, super long straps that allude to sword belts and black mesh layers that feature intricate etchings reminiscent of heavily decorative knight’s armour.

Scottacus Perkin 2016
Scottacus Anthony 2016

Jane Allcock

Inspired by “feisty female characters and solving mysteries,” the recent LCF womenswear graduate has already managed to grab the attention of several publications, including Vogue, Polyester and Fault magazine. Her most recent collection evokes “folk stories, referencing the tales of Irish immigrants […] and their journey away from the tough rural landscape into the complex narratives unfolding around them.” The designs are simultaneously traditional and young, modernizing elements of national costume with clean cuts and feminine details.

Follow on instagram: @janeallcockdesign

Leanne Callon

Inspired by the photographs of army uniforms, Callon’s use of masculine motifs in womenswear results in a juxtaposition of “strong angular lines” with “the organic smoothness of knit.” The LCF student manipulates volume with elastic and cords, creating a look that plays with restriction whilst appearing practical and comfortable. A muted green palette dominates the collection, referring to the camouflage uniforms worn by soldiers in areas of high rainfall.

Follow on instagram: @leanne_callon

Leanne Callon, 'Beyond Borders'
Leanne Callon, ‘Beyond Borders’

Amy Bennett

The London-based womenswear designer and recent graduate from Kingston University draws influence from “both masculine and feminine design principles,” creating effortlessly cool looks by focusing “on challenging conventional methods of garment construction through experimental pattern cutting and drape.” Interested in the relationship between the clothes and the person, Bennett found that asymmetrical shapes formed an important basis for her collection, central to exploring how “how each component of a garment can be affected in various ways by the wearer.”

Follow on instagram: @_amyben_

Joseph Standish

Intrigued by “beer bellies, bad tattoos, long hair, chest hair, no hair,” the LCF graduate shocked the crowd when he sent the models down in part terrifying part hilarious masks. His BA collection, featuring patchwork denim and shredded patches, brings a much-needed dose of humour to fashion, with the inspiration being more “the bloke in the pub or the builder working on your windows” than the beautiful dirty rich. However, the banter doesn’t retract from Standish’s evident talent, with the designs being simultaneously bizarre and impressive in their intricacy and boldness.

Follow on instagram: @standish_