The quarter-shoulder crisis
The shoulder continues to be fetishised in London, with designers this season opting to style tops with artful nonchalance, offering just the right amount of exposure. As seen during opening shows at Teatum Jones and throughout the week, everywhere from Roksanda to Marques’Almeida, the new off-the-shoulder style is relaxed and elegant; think of the way Vetements transformed wearing a coat into a complex postural balancing act, and enjoy trying to keep this angle perfect while navigating the London tube.
Traditionally trends are gleaned from the catwalk, but there’s no denying that this French cliché has been commandeered by Londoners as a new, post-ironic alternative to the beanie. Worn with as much conviction indoors as it outside, it’s the joke fashion item that follows on from meta-referencing in authentic fake t-shirts and socks and sandals. Choose a brightly coloured one to match the rest of your brazen outfit.
It may have begun on the Saint Laurent catwalk last season, but the full frontal glitter vibes couldn’t be ignored at London Fashion Week SS18. Molly Goddard swept up crowds into a fervour with her nonchalant, feminine designs where swathes of fun and glamour were added courtesy of this new disco vibe. Meanwhile at Halpern, billowy snakeskin sleeves were complimented with wide leg sequinned trousers, sloping one-shoulder sparkling mini-dresses and sheer shimmering tops – all combining to add a touch of fresh American glamour to the London scene. At Christopher Kane, the Scottish designer took inspiration from the domestic, but managed to add a glamorous edge: rough, glittery material broken up with zips was rendered as oversized cardigans and frayed skirts; crocs were given a glam (it’s possible) upgrade courtesy of a partnership with Swarovski.
Preferably worn with giant zips up the front à la Marques’Almeida, the high waisted trouser revolt has officially begun.
Molly Goddard elicited eeks of glee from the crowd as she debuted her tangerine, cropped stripy cardigan, worn with the two top buttons done up. It’s the kind of grungy, sexy vibe that started as Edie Campbell joyfully opened the proceedings, Cava and e-cigarette in tow.
We know, we know: just as you got a handle on the rules of dressing in bold, primary colours the designers throw a curve ball and bring back neon, and neon green at that. At Shrimps, this was introduced through blinding tights that clashed with super cute, pink dresses, then emphasised with big, furry, all-neon compositions. Visiting brands Versace and Armani went big on neon green too, with the former offering ‘non-fashion’ blinding dresses, mini handbags and waist belts in this hard-to-ignore shade. Meanwhile Armani’s 113 looks were peppered with the shade – from laces to blazers, and see-through accessories for good measure.