Established in 1927, only four years after the foundation of modern Turkey, this fish restaurant has maintained its popularity by sticking to the basics but doing them exceedingly well. Though located just a few minutes’ walk downhill from the tourist honeypot around the iconic cathedral of Hagia Sophia, an area where few local people still live, such is its reputation that it attracts Istanbulites from right across the metropolis. They are drawn by its atmospheric setting: a traditional wood-built mansion house fronting a steep cobbled street, with white-clothed tables set out on the vine-shaded terrace in summer, and a limited but well-chosen selection of meze and freshly caught and cooked fish. The fragrantly spiced mussel pilaf is an extremely popular starter, and justifiably so; the grilled turbot is superb if you visit in season. Visitors tend to fuss over the wine list, while most local diners keep it trad and sip cloudy white glasses of aslan sütü (lion’s milk), the fiery Turkish aniseed spirit raki mixed with iced water.