Slightly surly service is the price to pay for enjoying sherry in one of the most popular tapas bars in the other-worldly barrio of Santa Cruz. La Bodega is well established on the tourist route in central Seville, but locals love it too, piling in huge groups from about 2 pm for lunch and about 9 pm for dinner. These are the best times to head to La Bodega for a glass of the signature manzanilla (old barrels scattered around the place) and a plate of their excellent tapas, either crammed in amongst voluble Sevillanos at the bar or, if you’re lucky, at one of the tables. The waiters seem permanently harassed, so be prepared to be pushy to make your order. It’ll be worth it.