If you want a real local market experience in Granada, brush up on your haggling skills in Spanish and head to the rough-and-ready, yet fascinating neighbourhood of Zaidin on Saturday morning. Here, in Granada´s most populated quarter, you will find a vast morning market where vendors will volubly try and sell you everything from fruit and vegetables to clothing and footwear. The Zaidin market is a little way out of Granada’s historial town centre, but the walk takes you on a lovely route down the Acerca del Darro (on which, often, you will find stalls selling artefacts made by local artesans) and over the Genil, Granada’s principal river.
Another truly local affair, La Chana’s Wednesday morning market is a great place to pick up fresh fruit, vegetables and bread. Unlike, for example, the Mercado San Agustin – situated in the monumental city centre of Granada and on the established tourist track – this market is intended only for residents of the immediate neighbourhood, a fact which is reflected in the ridiculously low prices. Vendors tout for business from the back of vans or on upturned boxes and the atmosphere is every bit as chaotic and lively as you’d expect from one of Granada’s most eclectic residential quarters. Just as with the Zaidin and Plaza Larga markets, you need to arrive early for the best buys, because by lunchtime stall-holders are ready to pack up and head for a cold beer and some tapas.