Bodegas Ricla
This little hole in the wall bar, nestled on a more touristy street, is a slice of authentic, old Madrid right in the centre. Its wooden counter and panelling – as well as its small size – give it a cosy atmosphere. Ask for a vermut de grifo (vermouth on tap); it is served the traditional way with an ice cube and wedge of orange. Keep an eye out for Ricla’s tapas dishes, scrawled on a chalk board behind the bar.