Belgrade’s collection of nightclubs on boats tend to get far more press coverage than they deserve. The splavs are generally nightmarish, exaggerated stereotypes of everything bad about the Balkans. 20/44 is the exception to this rule, and has a fine reputation as one of the best nightlife spots in the entire city. A former strip joint on a struggling Sava ship, 20/44 bucked the trend from the get-go and has prospered because of it. Alternative culture is well and truly alive here.