We expect certain things from the traditional Serbian restaurants we visit. For one, we like to see old paintings adorning the walls, preferably celebrating the Serbian way of life over the centuries. Secondly, the tables absolutely must come with an old fashioned tablecloth, preferably one with red and white (or blue and white) chequers. Finally, the grilled meat must be sizeable and positively dripping with grease. Kraljević Marko ticks all these boxes and then some, and we aren’t really sure why everywhere doesn’t serve everything on a bed of kajmak.