Vračar might be the smallest municipality in Belgrade, but those dismissing it because of size are only hurting themselves. The tree-lined streets are full of cafes teeming with discussion, making Vračar the place to be in Belgrade for lovers of coffee and conversation.
The area around Belgrade’s iconic Church of St. Sava seems to have more cafes than people, a statement that is equal parts implausible and seemingly correct. How to separate the great from the can’t miss? You can’t go wrong with pretty much everywhere, but these spots demand a little extra attention.
From the wonderful people at Meduza comes Topolska 18, and if you are struggling to find it then the clue is in the name. You still need to stroll through the garden and under the archway however, but you’ll then find yourself in a secret home that will quickly work its way into your heart. Books, books and books abound, with a delightful outdoor area the perfect spot for reading them. Unless you are already drunk, of course.
Another bar in Vračar with a delightful garden, Monk’s is all soothing jazz and elegant fairy lights, complemented by the usual array of alcoholic beverages and some of the friendliest service in this part of the city. Keep an eye out for the little cat that invariably makes its way around the place day and night, a cat that we’re convinced is some sort of covert spy. That could just be the rakija talking though.
There are a number of branches of the excellent Kafeterija coffee house dotted around Belgrade, and you can’t really go wrong with any of them. We have a soft spot for the one down by Student Square however, with its large table and quaint little outdoor area, both of which make for an excellent typing spot when down in the area. It may well serve the best coffee in town as well, which is an impressive feat.
A little creative paradise up in Vračar, Kozmetičar is one of our favourite cafes in all Belgrade. The colourful interior never fails to raise spirits, and the staff are among the capital’s most engaging and convivial. The comfortable seats and social environment leans towards the inspiring, and the garden is a peerless place in which to get a breath of fresh air. It is one of our favourites, and it will surely become one of yours as well.
Another colourful spot with an invigoratingly colourful garden, Bar Priča is the sort of place that should be a little too pretentious for its own good, but manages to stay refreshingly unaffected. One of the more popular cafes in Vračar, Bar Priča is a place that stays true to its name and then some, priča being the Serbian word for ‘story’ after all. Pull up a chair and make a few of your own.
Located a short walk from the Nikola Tesla Museum, Tegla Bar is an explosion of colour every bit as refreshing as the juice drinks that are waiting to be enjoyed. There is plenty of coffee too, but the range and variety of fresh juices and cold versions is as good as anywhere else in Belgrade. Tegla is also an excellent choice for breakfast or lunch, with friendly splendour and magnificent salads on offer.
With a delightful garden located a short walk from the Church of St. Sava, Le Petit Bistro is a mighty popular spot in Vračar from early morning until late at night. There are plenty of options here when it comes to breakfast, but the real value is in an afternoon cup of coffee in the shade of the terrace. It also has plenty of soy milk options, a development still frustratingly rare in Belgrade.
We’ve all been there, sat in a cafe enjoying a cup of coffee so much that you wish you could take it home with you and have it every morning. Vračar’s Cafe & Factory understands this, and the various brews and mixes found here are also conveniently available to take home for domestic use. However, we wholeheartedly recommend spending plenty of time in the hugely companionable cafe.
Is it someone’s living room? There is every chance that Vračar’s Cafe Moment is just a particularly intellectual house party, but we’re not about to ask and spoil the fun. You’ll have to rock up early to find space in the tiny interior, but the leafy garden offers a few more sitting opportunities if none are found inside. Failing that, perch on the wall or lean on the fence — Moment is as down to earth as this part of Belgrade gets.
From one extreme to another. Chillton BIFE might be the punk rock soul of Vračar, but Terminal is very much a house of style and fashion, exemplified by the meticulously dressed clientele. It is undoubtedly one of the best restaurants in the neighbourhood, although it is just as enjoyable a spot for a cocktail or something shorter. The view of St. Sava’s Church is difficult to beat.