Durmitor National Park might be massive but the majority of that is taken up by majestic mountains and luscious landscapes, with little left over for modernity and urbanisation. This means that the few establishments tend to double (or triple) up as hotels, restaurants and bars all at the same time. Hotel Soa is one such spot, sat quaintly in the centre of Žabljak. The accommodation is fabulously modern, and the restaurant continues the trend with a focus on contemporary food as opposed to traditional authentic fare. Plenty of wine too, which always helps.