Positano is the queen of the kingdom. One of the most popular and well known towns for sure, but there is a reason for that. The tumble of pastel houses that cascade down the mountainside forming a candy colored pyramid shape is the most iconic image of the Amalfi Coast. Descend the thousand steps from Piazza Mulini to the Spiaggia Grande and you will see neatly organized rows of yellow and orange striped sun loungers and umbrellas stretched out in front of a turquoise sea. Turn around and take in the town’s cathedral Santa Maria Assunta, the dome covered with an intricate mosaic of green, yellow and dark blue tiles. From the pier where the ferries to Capri arrive, find the shady paved pathway named via Positanesi D’America and take a stroll to Fornillo. This small stretch of beach has beach clubs, a sliver of public beach and a medieval tower that centuries ago was used to watch for pirate invasions.
Take the Via delle Signore footpath from Amalfi and discover Atrani, a endearing village wedged in between the two hills named Civita and Aurora that run along the Dragone river. You will feel like you are in an Escher drawing come to life here. Follow the artist’s footsteps and make the climb to the tiny Santuario Santa Maria del Bando for a dizzying view of the village and lemon groves down below. Wander the narrow alleys, stairways and under the arches through the town and have a drink at one of the cafes in the main square, Piazza Umberto I. Altrani’s beach is more sandy than pebbles, a rare find on the Amalfi Coast and the main beach club’s blue and white striped umbrellas are particularly photogenic against the whitewashed buildings. For the best view of the only Rococo style church on the coast the Santa Maria Maddelena, head out to sea. Back on land, peek inside for the ornate interior and the 11th century bronze door.
Conca dei Marini
Blink and you will miss it while driving along the 30 miles of the SS 163, the twisty Amalfi Coast road. Conca dei Marini is tiny. You will find this fishing village is in between Amalfi and Furore. The most striking attraction here is the Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Grotto). Luigi Buoncore, a local sailor, made this a popular tourist stop in the 1930s. Take the quick boat trip to this grotto inside a cave where the sunlight hits the walls to create a viridescent effect on the water. This is the destination for the traveler with a sweet tooth. Sfogliatella Santa Rosa is a flaky, orange scented, ricotta stuffed pastry was created in the 17th century by nuns from the Convent of Santa Rosa.
This town sits high above the sea along the Lattari mountain range, 1200 feet to be exact. The views from Ravello are extraordinary. Start at the Villa Ruffolo and take the quintessential picture over the Norman and Moorish style tower and the Tyrrhenian sea. Wind through the towns pedestrian only lanes to the Villa Ciambrone to visit the well tended gardens and walk the precipitous and sculpture lined Terrace of Infinity. The two hour walk between the town’s main square Piazza Duomo and Piazza Fontana Moresca is filled with 11th and 12th century churches, romantic crumbling villas and gleaming restored hotels where celebrities and royalty once stayed on their visits to this exclusive destination. There is probably no music venue quite as scenic as the stage at Oscar Niemeyer Auditorium. Suspended over the sea, international and Italian artists perform here on evenings in the summer months.
Cetara is a sweet sleepy fishing village at the Vietri su Mare end of the Amalfi Coast. Anchovy and tuna fishermen repair the nets every day on the pier next to their painted fishing boats. There is a small beach across from the pier facing the beautiful Collata Bay. The Aragonese tower at the eastern edge of the beach once stood watch over the town from sea invasions of Saracen pirates. Today there are occasionally art shows inside. Ask for directions to Lannio beach, which is down a long flight of stairs and you will find a small stretch of sand instead of pebbles. Cetara is famous for its salted anchovy sauce called colatura, which dates back to the Roman era.