Trattoria Piccolo Napoli
This is the sort of unpretentious place that endears visitors to Palermo, despite the Naples homage woven into its name. A mainstay of the Borgo Vecchio neighbourhood – the onetime stomping ground of sailors – Piccolo Napoli’s menu is heavy on no-frills local basics. Follow the cues of the regulars and ask what’s good that day, rather than ordering off the menu – but if you’re shy, you can’t go wrong with the golden-baked, breadcrumb-stuffed sardines (sarde a beccafico).