Da Felice in Testaccio is the most famous old-school restaurant for cacio e pepe. Serving up classic Roman dishes since 1936, it’s an institution in the city and beloved by locals for its hearty, honest fare. Actor Roberto Benigni was a fan of Felice, the restaurant’s original owner, and is just one of the restaurant’s well-known patrons. The draw of the cacio e pepe here is that the waiter whips up this dish in front of you, tossing the pasta at your plate with an adept hand ensuring the ingredients are combined to perfection.
Just steps away from buzzing Piazza Trilussa lies one of Rome’s hidden treasures: Osteria Zi Umberto. With classic Roman service (read: brusque), high quality and low prices, its always bustling for good reason. The rotating daily specials are always excellent as are the staples. The cacio e pepe here is mild but flavorful; we recommend pairing with a side dish of cicoria.