In spite of Prada’s ‘anti-fashion’ theme, in which the designer showed a collection inspired by the edge of genericness, there were a few tributes to style during the Prada AW17 show. The highlight was a series of statement necklaces – oversized shells strung on thick silver chains sat at odds with otherwise expertly rendered simple shirt and jumper combinations. At Damir Doma, it was large, organic-shaped perspex pendants on black leather that added texture to bold designs, while at Moschino, low-slung, oversized, embellished crucifixes and chain tassels were added to already eclectic styling for a finishing flair. For men who prefer their necks jewellery-free, Marcelo Burlon’s strong neckerchief game is one to be pursued. In short, it’s time to tantalise with your most unexpected asset yet.
As demonstrated on the summer womenswear catwalks, ugly shoes are hotter than Donald Trump’s ears three seconds after he tweets. Nail the ultimate his ‘n’ her style by channelling Salvatore Ferragamo with crimped soles, or go for Moschino’s clashing use of metallic Dr Martens and calf-crawling military styles across their collection. At Prada, fur-embellished loafers were the order of the day, while at No.21, classic tailoring was married with studded, thick-soled loafers in jungle green, oxblood red and inky black.
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Forget denim and parachute, the material of choice is now corduroy, as artfully reinstated by Prada. While Gucci’s ‘Geek Chic’ errs a little on the extravagant, Prada’s men were enviable in their style and desirably imitable, too. Beige cord trousers and jackets hinted at a simpler, more bookish type of male. At Marni, thick cords in mustard were loosely tailored for a more laid-back type of nerd.
For autumn 2017, one can expect to see loud statement prints undo refined minimalism. At Moschino, a mix of camo prints with references to the Transformer series were designer Jeremy Scott’s nod to a bleak future in the US.
Meanwhile, Donatella Versace embraced thick checks in loud reds and blacks that were planted across duvet jackets. Stories from Grecian mythology were rendered in bright colours across jumpers and jackets to create a unified man-gang in response to hard times ahead. ‘We’re living in hard times, with problems all over the world. I liked the idea of men and a brotherhood, and I believe men are stronger together,’ the designer told reporters backstage.
At Marni, low-slung trousers were worn with grungy 70s knits in rusty reds and mustard yellows, while cerulean blues clashed with chequered trousers. Clash was the aim of the game here, where the more absurd juxtapositions of prints were the most effective.
Though not prints proper, Dolce and Gabbana‘s band of ‘princes’ presented a similarly clan-like line-up, albeit with a regal edge. Here, prints were clear, with velvet tuxedos, denim and jumpers adorned with playful hybrids of regal icons, animals and contemporary references.
On the final day, Etro offered lavish baroque prints in muted tones splashed across soft velvet suits – an eloquent embrace of the winter to come.
Hats and ugly fringes
At Marni, lapis blue and carmine were piled high in layers on fur hats, worn at a slant. At Marcelo Burton, pilgrim hats complemented a military aesthetic in a collection laden with khaki and bondage straps, while Missoni offered clipped baseball caps in signature colours. At Versace, fierce looks were completed with highly stylised gel fringes that were swept down over models’ faces – a good option for those starting to embrace a bolder look.