The spot known to local children as the ‘dead animal zoo’ is a great drop in, in part because there are subtle historical undertones to be taken from the ornately displayed wildlife. From international endangered animals (all killed a century ago) upstairs to the local flora and fauna downstairs, you’ll learn about the difficulties faced by the mammoth great Irish deer, the size of the fish that used to reside in the Liffey River, and just how big a lobster can get. (There are lots of other good museums too.)
One of the capital’s less heralded must-dos, the Great South Wall is a 1.5-kilometre (0.9-mile) sea wall jutting into the Dublin Bay, creating, effectively, a road to nowhere. On the trail between two stretches of sea, you’ll see ferries pull into the port, watch seabirds soar ahead, and eventually arrive at a stark red lighthouse and walls decorated with loved-up hippie graffiti. It’s perfectly serene.
Dublin’s pubs fall into loose categories. There’s a growing abundance of craft beer pubs competing for the most original array on tap. There are ample sports bars. And then there’s the ‘old man pub’, which is distinct from the tourist pub in that it tends to pass on the faux-trad and, typically, be so empty that economic sustainability confounds. These pubs have all the hallmarks of Irish pub culture and are the perfect place for a quiet pint and an indulgent, atmospheric bit of reading or writing. The Boar’s Head, address below, is one of the city’s best.
The Boar’s Head, 149 Capel Street, Dublin 1, Ireland, +353 1 872 3107
One of Europe’s largest walled parks, Phoenix Park is full of attractions, ranging from the President’s House (Aras An Uachtarain – where tours are sometimes available if booked ahead) to the zoo, the magazine fort, visitor centre, and the famous herds of deer. Tracking the latter down can be an all-day adventure, and the park – which acts as the city’s lungs – is a wonderful place to spend a mellow, colourful day.
It can be hard to find good trad pubs in Dublin – some locals preciously guard their favourites, and most of the ones recommended in the guide books will be noticeably absent of actual Irish people. They’re there, though, and this musical pub crawl is a good way to get a glance at a few of them whilst meeting some new people and hearing some tales. You’ll be exploring both Irish music and the national pastime, drinking, which is a little frowned upon to do alone. It’s a great way to dig in.
There are several groups that meet regularly on various evenings, inviting strangers to plod around the city streets at various degrees of pace and ability. Most of these events – in typical Irish fashion – close with sociable pints and are a great way to get to know a few people and explore the city at the same time. A good way to learn about the groups (and plenty of other sociable events) is through the MeetUp website. We particularly like this one, which is impressively multinational.
There’s a map commonly sold in Dublin marking the city’s greatest evils. According to that map, those evils are pubs, and what it makes painfully apparent is that there are a lot of them. So many that James Joyce joked in his classic Ulysses that it would be impossible to cross the city without passing one. It turned out that problem took 89 years and a software developer to solve (finally, in 2011), but it makes for a unique alternative stroll across the city – followed by a pint, naturally.