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© Shayne Fergusson
© Shayne Fergusson
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The Art of Peacocking: New Menswear Trends from Paris

Picture of India Doyle
Updated: 26 January 2017
Finishing off a month of fashion, the menswear shows in Paris offered a masterclass in the art of outwear with a series of game-changing coats.

Running parallel to Trump’s inauguration, the Paris Fashion Week menswear shows rose to the challenge of offering a different perspective on masculinity, in which the current President’s notions of alpha maledom (broad shouldered, badly fitting ‘power suits’) were shunned in favour of bold, bright colour palettes, dynamic materials and textures. In Paris, there was a provocative spirit in the air, a playful challenge to ideas of male identity. Collections were united by a fearless sense of individual style, rather than by a pervading aesthetic. At Balmain, camo-bomber jackets were walked alongside embellished velvet biker jackets; at Kenzo primary yellows and blues coats, belted around the waist, were coupled with peach cardigans that hovered above the floor. It was clear that in an uncertain age, standing out will be as key as making a stand. And while the Louis Vuitton x Supreme collaboration may have commanded the majority of the editor’s attention, it was statement coats that emerged as the key piece to covet for Autumn 2017. Below, Culture Trip’s fashion team bring readers the highlights from Paris.

The AW17 menswear trends to wear now

Colour blocking at Kenzo

Creative designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim married a bold use of colour with strong layering game to create the ultimate hybrid of cosmopolitan style and functional in-nature protection.

Tartan and shearling at Paul Smith

Following in the wake of many of his fellow designers, Paul Smith presented a unisex show for AW17, offering a splendid mix of khaki suits, snakeskin boots, tartan two-pieces – and much more.

Houndstooth and clashing colours at AMI

Louche staples were expertly nailed by AMI, who presented well-tailored silhouettes in bold colours and a range of tartan, tweed and houndstooth coats rendered in weighty wools, to the delight of all show attendees.

Ami Automne Hiver 2017 Look 01 Hector #amiparis #amifw17

A photo posted by AMI Alexandre MattiussI (@amiparis) on

Camo and embellishment at Balmain

The Balmain Army was out in full force at yet another unisex catwalk collection. Olivier Rousteing brought his signature sexy-grunge and mixed in some embellished camouflage jackets with moss-coloured knitwear – very ‘Pantone Colour of the Year’.

Oversized puffas and electric furs at Dior Homme

To celebrate the 112th birthday of Christian Dior, Belgian-born designer Kris Van Assche embraced a vision of hardcore Dior, in which depraved ravers hooked up with misbehavers, wearing suits with stitching on the outside and statement furs.

JUST IN | @Kris_Van_Assche's #DiorHomme Winter 2017-2018 Collection. #PFW

A photo posted by Dior Homme Official (@diorhomme) on

Shearling and suede at Maison Margiela

Though the Maison Margiela presentation may have been understated, the clothes were anything but. Raw-edged knits were tucked into high waist woollen trousers; a hand-constructed gilet made from scrap motocross leather was worn over a brown melange wool sweater with unfinished hems and coupled with slim glen plaid trousers; and a cut-off denim dungaree bib was aired with black wool trousers.

A raw shearling coat adds volume to Look 3 of our Autumn-Winter 2017 Menswear Collection.
#maisonmargiela #pfw

A photo posted by Maison Margiela (@maisonmargiela) on

Cut-outs at Sacai

Model Paul Hameline led a unisex troupe of models in a collection full of military undertones, overt layering and collage cut-out prints from designer Chitose Abe. Boxy cord jackets in camel also featured, another sign that the material is making a comeback.

sacai 2017 Autumn Winter men's show #sacai #sacaiofficial photo by @mcvalentino

A photo posted by sacaiofficial (@sacaiofficial) on