Many sing the praises of Paris in the springtime, but the city is equally beautiful when the air grows cooler and ruby-colored leaves coat the Luxembourg Gardens. Appreciate the season (or in some cases, escape it) at these bakeries, bars and restaurant perfect for fall.
Un Dimanche à Paris
Restaurant, French, European, $$$
Un Dimanche à Paris
Head to this chocolate shop and restaurant for excellent hot chocolate and exceptional desserts. The restaurant offers a seasonally-inspired menu that often incorporates cocoa in interesting ways. A salad, for example, might be served with cocoa bread crisps, while a roasted prawn dish includes cocoa nibs. Un Dimanche à Paris also offers pastry courses. This fall, classes will focus on tarts, macarons, choux pastry, and of course, chocolate. Don’t forget to pick up a few sweet treats from the boutique on your way out.
Opening time: Tea salon 3:00 pm-6:00 pm; Restaurant Tuesday 7:00 pm-10:00 pm, Wednesday-Saturday 12:00 pm-2:00 pm, 7:00 pm-10:00 pm, Sunday 11:00 am-2:30 pm
Address: Un Dimanche à Paris, 4 Cours du Commerce Saint-André, 75006 Paris, France
Le Red House
Bar, American, $$$
Le Red House
This American-owned bar has a relaxed, convivial atmosphere. The décor includes a pinball machine and a large bull’s skull draped with red fairy lights. The bar offers a large selection of creative cocktails as well as seasonal drink specials. Past autumnal drinks have incorporated beet and pumpkin flavors. Order a plate of nachos or hot wings to accompany your drink and socialize with locals and tourists alike. Fun themed nights and special events make this bar a must.
Opening hours: 5:00 pm-2:00 am
Le Red House, 1 Bis Rue de la Forge Royale, 75011 Paris, France
This bright, beautiful café near Bastille is the perfect spot for lunch on a brisk autumn day. Maison Bastille offers a rotating selection of salads, making it a light, healthy alternative to the heavy, rich meals often associated with the season. A small boutique area features a delightful assortment of postcards, cookbooks and food products, while chic décor adds to the café’s charm. Generous portion sizes make Maison Bastille a great value.
Opening hours: Monday-Friday 10:00 am-3:00 pm, Saturday 11:00 am-6:00 pm
Address: Maison Bastille, 34 bis rue Amelot, 75011 Paris, France
Le Bar à Bulles
Bar, Restaurant, Dessert, $$$
Le Bar à Bulles
This funky restaurant in Pigalle offers lunch, brunch and tapas. The menu is simple but prices are affordable, especially given the pleasant ambiance. On Saturdays and Sundays, opt for the 26 euro brunch, which includes a pancake, salad, appetizer, main dish and dessert. The restaurant’s terrace is the perfect place to enjoy the fall weather. If the air is too chilly, enjoy your meal inside, where colorful lamps, patterned walls and mismatched chairs add personality to the space.
Opening hours: Wednesday-Saturday 12:00 pm-12:00 am, Sunday 12:00 pm-10:00 pm
Address: Le Bar à Bulles, 90 Boulevard de Clichy, 75018, Paris
L'Éclair de Génie
Bakery, Patisserie, French, Pastries, $$$
L’Éclair de Génie
Christophe Adam’s much-lauded bakery offers a rotating selection of deliciously rich and visually stunning éclairs. This fall, the bakery is all about chocolate, caramel and nuts. Try the tarte tatin éclair, a delightful combination of vanilla cream, caramelized apples and nutty streusel. From October 28 to November 1, L’Éclair de Génie will also offer a special selection of chocolate éclairs in a promotion known as Choc’October. The bakery will donate one euro from the sale of each specialty éclair to Retinostop, a non-profit organization that helps families of children with retina cancer. During November and December, head to the bakery for a taste of Adam’s meringue éclairs, soft choux pastry topped with crunchy meringue and chocolate pieces.
Opening hours: Monday-Friday 11:00 am-7:00 pm, Saturday-Sunday 10:00 am-7:30 pm
Address: L’Éclair de Génie, 14 Rue Pavée, 75004 Paris, France, Multiple locations, hours vary
Bakery, Restaurant, French, $$$
This bakery specializes in sweet and savory tarts of every sort. Savory tarts include salmon and spinach and tomato, and basil and goat cheese. Sweet specialties include a cake-like raspberry tart and a variety of cheesecakes. Try the key lime cheesecake, a light, creamy cheesecake with a soft cookie crust reminiscent of gingerbread. Best of all, every tart is prepared on site using seasonal ingredients. A Tartes Kluger tart is an excellent accompaniment to any autumnal meal.
Opening hours: Sunday-Monday 11:00 am-5:00 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 11:00 am-6:00 pm
Address: Tartes Kluger, 15 Rue Trousseau, 75011 Paris, France
Restaurant, French, European, Vegetarian, Gluten-free, $$$
Ellsworth offers small plates of upscale comfort food. Head to the restaurant for brunch, when the food on offer is especially creative. The menu changes regularly, but recent favorite dishes include chilaquiles, a mess of tortilla chips topped with chicken and avocado, and seared foie gras served with buckwheat waffles. Order two to three dishes per person for a filling meal. The small, bright restaurant has a relaxed atmosphere and servers are friendly and helpful.
Opening hours: Monday 7:00 pm-10:30 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 12:30 pm-2:30 pm, 7:00 pm-10:30 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-3:00 pm
Address: Ellsworth, 34 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 Paris, France
Bar, Restaurant, French
Escape the cold at this speakeasy bar housed in Paris’ 1K Hotel. Once you enter the hotel, follow a hostess past the restaurant kitchens to reach the hidden bar. As the name suggests, the cocktail menu focuses on mezcal, a relative of tequila. The atmosphere is quiet and intimate, making it the perfect place to take a date for an after-dinner drink. The bar’s open area and colorful décor give it a welcoming air.
Opening hours: Wednesday-Saturday 7:00 pm -2:00 am
Address: La Mezcalería, 13 Boulevard du Temple, 75003 Paris, France
Cafe, American, $$$
When fall begins to fade into winter, warm up in this cozy café. Since opening in 2011, Coutume Café has consistently been a favorite destination for coffee lovers in Paris. The café sources coffee beans from around the world and boasts knowledgeable, passionate baristas. In addition to coffee, the café offers an excellent American-style brunch, which includes eggs benedict and pancakes. Order the Coutume coffee, a specialty drink that changes monthly, for a taste of fall.
Opening hours: Monday-Friday 8:00 am-7:00 pm, Saturday-Sunday 10:00 am-7:00 pm
Address: Coutume Café, 47 Rue de Babylone, 75007 Paris, France
Tea Room, Tea , $$$
Mamie Gâteaux is a charming tea room decorated to resemble a grandmother’s kitchen. Small details, like the café’s lace curtains and checked tablecloths, add to the feeling of homeyness. The café serves soups, salads and quiches as well as tarts, cakes and pies. Mamie Gâteaux also makes excellent English scones, a rarity in Paris. The café is quite popular, so arrive early for the best selection of cakes and pies.
Opening hours: Tuesday-Saturday 11:45 am-6:00 pm
Address: Mamie Gâteaux, 66 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, France
By Casey Brand – Check out Casey’s website.