Big hats are back
Starting Paris fashion week a day earlier than usual, Jacquemus’ SS18 at the Musée Picasso was a melting pot of laid-back beach vibes, coupled with an impressive array of twists, knots and over-the-knee shorts. Most notable however were the oversized sun hats, which towered over the faces of their wearers and are a certain it item for next summer. Start mastering the art of wearing them now. At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson dialled it down a little, but also put wide-brimmed bucket hats back on the table.
Two coats are better than one
Phoebe Philo said it first with blazers worn under duster coats. Or, at least, she offered the illusion of duality with supersize macs that looped back on themselves, offering two layers in different, equally neutral shades at Céline. Then Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga confirmed the trend with his riotous, energetic collection. Here, among the sensational platform Crocs (first debuted by Christopher Kane) and over-the-shoe printed tights, coats were hung one on top of the other to create volume and texture that only the man behind Vetements could begin to conceive. Later in the week, Thom Browne completed the argument with a magical and disquieting collection, built around experiments with proportions and scale. Here blazers and jackets in clanging colours and prints made a convincing case for layering. Sacai didn’t promote multiple coats but did offer an interesting new means of wearing outwear: looped around the waist.
Fantasy dressing is the new normal
Many designers at Paris (and many of them American) decided to embrace surrealism this season – an acknowledgement of the psychological state during these strange times, perhaps. At Rick Owens, dystopian figures marched outside Palais de Tokyo, with monstrous sandals and, for the most part, some kind of sculptural bondage-wear. Thom Browne SS18 on the last day of Paris Fashion Week also toyed with this maximalist and fantastical sphere, opening the show with life size Unicorn puppets and bringing surreal sculptural pieces made from sagging clay into a collection that already covered clashing prints, off-kilter tailoring and brocade jackets and tulle rosettes.
Punk, in moderation
At Junya Watanabe, accessories came served with a dollop of attitude courtesy of large metal spikes on dog collars. Hair also received the punk treatment, with spikes styled into mohawks. These severe looks were put with voluminous dresses and intricate prints to offer a quirky juxtaposition. Given the political landscape across the US and Europe, it’s surprising that punk hasn’t already made more of a notable comeback. Expect this new trend to mark the beginning of a larger style phenomenon.
Futuristic glasses are a must-have accessory
A Bella Hadid favourite, Andy Wolf’s futuristic glasses were all over the Aalto SS18 catwalk and are a firm favourite among the street style crowds. It’s the easiest way to transform your look next summer.