Most of the trends Paris Fashion Week delivered built upon looks we’ve seen this season, including aviator headgear and glasses, jodhpurs, trainer sneakers paired with evening looks, and a statement coat. What these trends have in common is they are designed in step with the millennial traveler who is traveling for “bleisure,” a combination of business and leisure. These seven designers have mastered the art of bleisure, Paris style.
Off-White’s Virgil Abloh caused a riot outside of his AW18 show, as non-ticket-holders swarmed the show, hoping to crash the much-hyped event. Abloh say his collection, entitled “West Village, was inspired by “the type of New York City woman who goes to SoulCycle on weekdays and rides horses in Westchester on weekends.”
2. Rick Owens
Rick Owens paid tribute to women who move freely in the world, a metaphor brought to life by bare legs in running shoes. Even some of the more couture looks gave a nod towards practicality, like the wool coat-cum-dress-cum-blanket (pictured below). This type of layering is not unusual for Owens, as the designer meshes the label’s aesthetic with the current zeitgeist of perpetual motion.
3. Christian Dior
At the house of Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri channeled 1968, a seminal year for youth culture in the French far-left as well as in America. Chiuri plastered the Musée Rodin with political posters from 1968, and on the runway, imposed sloganism in knitwear, graduating from T-shirts. Much of the collection pandered to daywear (in search of the millennial buying power Gucci and Balenciaga capitalized on last year), but even in her evening looks, Chiuri creates a jet-set woman, moving lithely from day to night.
4. Yves Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent channeled the ’70s with his take on Ballets Russes, the legendary itinerant ballet company made famous in 1976 by Saint Laurent himself. Black lace and velvet, leather, and lots of skin make this collection a sexy take on bleisure.
In his second collection for Lanvin, Olivier Lapidus went for the on-trend hooded turtleneck, paired with the on-trend transparent coat. Melding technology and fashion (the aforementioned coat has a zipped iPad compartment in the back), the house of Lanvin reaches towards the jet-set business woman.
Natacha Ramsay-Levi, who was named the house of Chloé’s new creative director last year, brought back the signature Chloé bag to the runway. Also of note, are utility capes and lace-up boots that feel more bohemian than romantic.
7. Junya Watanabe
Whether pairing a feminine floral dress with hi-tops and a turtleneck, or summoning the ’90s with throwback Buffalo shoes, Junya Watanabe had a refreshing utility theme in his “No Theme” AW18 collection. The come-as-you-are look is no frills and strikes a chord with the work women are doing in the streets, just by being a woman.