- Alex Ledsom
The big covered market (“Marché Forville“) near La Croisette and at the foot of the ancient neighbourhood of Le Suquet is a local institution. Here’s our guide on what you can find there, when to go and why it’s worth the effort.
The market was pedestrianised in 2012 and is a delight for any lover of fresh produce who just wants to wander around tasting and buying the delicious local food. With seasonal vegetables, fish (fresh off the boat) or handmade local delicacies, it’s a must-see on any Cannes agenda.
If you love cold meats, head to see François Tomé, who has been selling at the market for over 20 years. He has tripe sausages (“andouillettes”) from Troye, ham from Burgundy or dried sausage from Lyon. His family came from Spain, so he’s very knowledgeable about chorizo or serrano ham. In the summer he has takeaway paella or sauerkraut (pickled cabbage) in winter (“choucroute”). His wife, Sylvia, also offers wonderful suggestions on recipes.
Julien Darmigny is a specialist in Italian food. He has ravioli Niçois, Provençale pasta sauces (ready to heat up) and yummy polenta. Willy Carayon, on the other hand, is a seafood vendor, selling oysters or mussels. Just like his father and his grandfather before him, he has been selling for the past 20 years. If you are looking for regional recipes with prawns, he’s your man.
If you simply want some fresh organic vegetables, head to see Julien Rostan. He understands everything there is to know about how to cultivate succulent vegetables in an ecological way. He follows the seasons; strawberries in spring, tomatoes and melons in summer, cabbage and leeks in winter. He’s at the market every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. His organic olives are not be missed.
The market can be extremely crowded in peak tourist season, so it’s best to get there early. Don’t fill up on a big breakfast, but wander around tasting things as you go, eating lunch there (maybe some socca from the region) and taking some food away for a picnic. Take a bottle of water too, as it gets hot. On Mondays, the flea market will be there all day.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun, 7am to 1pm. Closed Mondays.
5–11 rue Marché Forville, Cannes