Arriving into Supetar harbour an hour from Split, you can start the day at a waterside café before taking the path round towards Supetar Cemetery. By doing so, you’re also following the trail created by the local tourist office, One Day with Rendić, which brings to life the works of local sculptor Ivan Rendić. This section of the route, past the public beach proposed by Rendić himself, leads to the cemetery. Dominated by the Byzantine-style Petrinović Mausoleum, the graveyard contains the remains of the Rendić clan, prominent citizens in the early 20th century.
Within easy reach of Supetar, Škrip is considered to be the oldest community on the island, settled by Illyrians before the Romans came. Brač played a significant role in the Roman colonisation, however, its fine white stone transported to the mainland to build, for example, the Diocletian’s Palace in Split. The island’s development is described at the Museum of Brač in the Radojković Tower here in Škrip. Beneath, the Roman Mausoleum may or may not house the remains of Diocletian’s wife and daughter – the possibility at least brings significant visitor numbers over from Supetar.
Finish the day where you started it, by Supetar harbour, with a fine meal at the seafront Palute. Except in the mild depths of winter, the expansive terrace of this typical Dalmatian restaurant spreads over the quay, allowing you to watch boats come and go as you wait for your wood-grilled fish with blitva greens, or seafood platter for two. Pleasingly affordable despite its winning location, Palute also serves decent house wine and the classic dessert, rožata, a kind of Dalmatian crème brûlée.
Palute, Put Pasike 16, Supetar, Brač, Croatia, +385 21 631 730
It’s time to explore the island by taking a bus to the island’s other main town, Bol, on the south coast. If it’s summer, the obvious first port of call is Croatia’s most iconic fine-shingle beach, Zlatni Rat (‘The Golden Cape’). Shifting currents and winds alter its shape slightly year upon year. In winter, the Dominican Monastery is worth exploring for its collection of rare Ancient Greek coins and Tintoretto painting, ‘Madonna with Child’. The dramatic location over the Adriatic does the rest.
Dominican Monastery, Šetalište Anđelka Rabadana 4, Bol, Croatia, +385 21 635 533
From Bol, the peak of Vidova gora is a three-hour hike or swift journey by minibus. At 778 metres (2,552 feet), Vidova gora is the highest point of Croatia’s islands, the views spectacular. A picnic table has been thoughtfully placed safely in from the edge for you to contemplate the vista, and your walk back into Bol. In summer, when you should take a hat and plenty of water, a makeshift bar sets up here.
Depending on the season, you can either party at the island’s main summer nightspot, Varadero, near Bol harbour, or book a table at the nearby Konoba Mlin, an old mill with a wonderful sea view. Again, the food is traditionally Dalmatian, but here might be the place to sample the island’s famously succulent lamb.
Varadero, Radića Frane, Bol, Croatia, +385 95 905 4203
Konoba Mlin, Ante Starčevića 11, Bol, Brač, Croatia, +385 21 635 376