Day 1: Morning
The first morning in, head for the Forum, partly to get your bearings, partly to feel a sense of local history. Start the day with coffee where the Romans used to shop and gossip 2,000 years ago. You’re free to peruse the chunks of columns and broken pillars—there’s nothing behind glass or kept under lock and key. For a better idea of how the Forum looked, see the detailed model in the Archeological Museum. Other attractions here include the ninth-century St Donat’s Church, which is no longer a place of worship, but is still a symbol of the city.