Hvar is a kind of ex-Socialist Monte Carlo, where oligarchs park their superyachts and Prince William gets down in nightclubs. The word is out – and it’s crowded. Palmižana, a taxi boat from Hvar town, is not. Home of the botanical garden-cum-bohemian lodging Villa Meneghello, Palmižana is where Croatians go to relax, sail, dive, sunbathe, strip off down to the bare essentials and swim. The contrast with busy Hvar is palpable, the secluded, idyllic spots manifold. Afterwards, a meal at sea-facing Toto’s by the Meneghello, amid exotic plants, should seal the deal.