The Nhieu Loc – Thi Nghe Canal, which separates District 3 and Phu Nhuan, is a thriving area that has gone through some remarkable transformations in the last 20 years. It was once a place to avoid because of sewage, but now it’s a small oasis in the middle of a cement jungle. There are hundreds of restaurants along the canal, both foreign and local. For local flavors, try Khe. The food is good, the beer is cheap and it’s definitely not a touristy place. It’s technically in District 1, but the borders don’t really make sense in this area anyway.
Quán Lẩu Nướng Xuân Khê, 109 Hoàng Sa, District 1, +84 90 257 21 17
Hai Ba Trung alone is a fascinating street, with fruit markets and fancy restaurants and boutique shops stretching all the way to the Saigon River downtown. But in District 3, right before the street crosses the canal and changes its name, there is a wonderfully odd sight: the Tan Dinh Church. Most people simply call it the ‘Pink Church’. Built in the late 19th century, during the French colonial years, the ‘Pink Church’ is the second largest in the city, after the Notre Dame Cathedral in District 1. It’s still in use, operated by the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Ho Chi Minh City. And after you have a look at the church, you really should take a walk down some of the surrounding streets. Much of Saigon is hidden, so you’ll need to stray into the alleys if you want to see how people really live here.
Tan Dinh Parish Church, 289 Hai Bà Trưng, District 3, +84 28 3829 0093
The word lake is a bit generous for this landmark — pond would be more appropriate. But it doesn’t really matter, because people don’t come here to look at the grimy water. Public spaces are at a premium in Ho Chi Minh City, so for people without the means to afford eating out at a restaurant, Turtle Lake provides a ledge to sit on, and cheap street food as well. Every night, hundreds of young people park their motorbikes around Turtle Lake to chat and hold hands. It’s dating, Vietnamese style. Bring your drink of choice and watch this interesting scene.
Vietnam has traditionally been a matriarchal society, and it still is in many ways. Look at any family gathering, and you’ll notice it’s the grandmas who run the show. Women have played integral roles in all facets of this country’s rich history, from the Trưng sisters and their fight against Chinese rule two millennia ago to the women of today who are leading the companies forging the economic future of Vietnam. This museum has displays on ethnic dress, jewellery and a strong focus on the diverse roles women played during the wars.
Southern Vietnam Women Museum, 202 Võ Thị Sáu, District 3, +84 28 3932 5519