This list is in no particular order — except for this one. It’s been the home of too many good nights for us to be completely unbiased. The staff are all wonderful people who’ve put up with a lot of nonsense. They go out of their way to make sure people are having fun. The best part is they’re open all night, so you can party at whatever pace suits you. Get inside, request some songs, and dance until your legs give out, or just sit outside and chat. Happy Life — or Club 185 to many of its regulars — is a bit of an institution among the many English teachers in the city. You’ll meet interesting people from around the world, and sometimes you’ll even meet some of the worst kinds of people. That’s Bui Vien for you.
This one is the odd one out on this list. Think of it as the kid from a horrible family who rose above it all and made something nice and decent for themselves. From high upon a perch over Bui Vien, The View gives one hell of a look at the blocky cement-scape that is downtown Saigon. It’s also one of the few places on Bui Vien where you can get quality cocktails — but you’ll pay for them. The View is probably the nicest place on this list. It’s a great spot if you’re not interested in watching Bui Vien’s seedier bits. Go inside the Duc Vuong Hotel and take the elevator as high as you can go. Then take the stairs up another floor. Enjoy the views.
The View Rooftop Bar, 195 Bùi Viện, District 1 +84 28 3838 6708
When it comes to no-frills drinking on Bui Vien, 96 takes the gold. The family running this little holdout of old school Bui Vien doesn’t hand out smiles to just anyone, but when you get one, you feel like a million dong. With garish beer clubs taking over the whole length of Bui Vien, 96 is where you can experience what Bui Vien used to be — crude, full of weirdos, and a gruff matron who doesn’t put up with any nonsense.
Craft beer has finally appeared in Bui Vien. Ong Cao pours some of the best brews the city has to offer — names like Pasteur Street Brewing Company, Fuzzy Logic, Tê Tê and Platinum. Vietnam’s craft beer scene was non-existent just a few years ago, but now it’s spreading like an awesome disease. Gone are the days of just Tiger, 333 and the Saigon beers. Of all the changes happening on Bui Vien, the introduction of craft beer is one we fully support — and you should, too.
Universal is a popular spot to watch sports on Bui Vien. They’re open around the clock, so whatever time zone your game is in, Universal will be open.
Universal Pub, 90 Bùi Viện, Phạm Ngũ Lão +84 94 563 24 49
This bar is a self-proclaimed dive bar, and it fits the bill. It’s dark, dingy, and a bit hard to find because it’s just a hole-in-the-wall down a side street off of Bui Vien. It’s the perfect place to end the night — or to start the morning. Be careful on your way to the bathroom. It’s usually an obstacle course of pool cues, spaced-out dancers, and wobbly drunks.
Once you’ve had your fill of Bui Vien’s deafening music and barely-contained aggression, bring your drink outside and take a seat on the dusty sidewalk to chat and watch the community around you. Grab a snack. Enjoy the scenery. Tourists are one part of the show, but the locals are much more interesting. They’re street smart, aged in an environment where they had to mature very quickly. Chat with some of them to hear the history of Bui Vien. It’s a story of war and astonishing change. Bui Vien is pure humanity — both ugly and endearing.