On Lok Yun for chay yen in an old-school café
On Lok Yun is where old folks come to start the day with their morning ritual: reading the papers while sipping on sweet Thai tea (chay yen). While some of the larger items on the menu fall a bit short, the overall quality of the food here is completely redeemed by the kaya (coconut egg custard jam) and steamed bread. The bread with butter and sugar is also surprisingly delicious, and a good example of how some things can amount to much more than the sum of their parts. Housed in a weathered shop a short walk away from the Grand Palace, this café is a great spot for early risers, as it’s open from 6am.