How To Spend 48 Hours In Si Phan Don Laos

Si Phan Don literally means “4,000 Islands” in the Lao language. Located on the border with Cambodia, these islands are a welcome surprise in a landlocked country. Some of them are no bigger than a boulder, others offer a paradise getaway in the Mekong River. Read how to spend two days relaxing and sightseeing at the southernmost point of Champasak Province.

Day 1

Before you ever step foot on an island, go to the Khone Phapheng falls viewing area on the mainland. Feel the power of the largest waterfall by volume in southeast Asia rushing over the rapids. Several restaurants, walking paths and a manicured garden make Khone Phapheng a perfect introduction to The 4000 Islands and a great way to spend a morning. Head back to Nakasang Village to take the ferry to Don Som, Don Khong or Don Det. Go to the ATM in town if you need cash. While Don Khong does have two ATMs, the other inhabited islands don’t, and like the rest of Laos, plastic is not widely accepted.

If you’re on a motorbike, head over the bridge to Don Khong and check out the views and take in village life. Cycling around the island visiting temples and taking in the view of rice paddies and the Mekong is a great way to spend the early afternoon. This is the calm before the storm. When you’ve had your fill of the sleepy pastoral island, catch a ferry, which will take motorbikes and bicycles, but not cars, to Don Det.

Welcome to Island Life! Find yourself a riverside bungalow (plentiful and some of the least expensive accommodations in Laos) and spend some time lounging in a hammock. Walk around town and rent a bicycle or hire a tuk tuk to take you to the French-built bridge between Don Det and Don Khon (not to be confused with Don Khong) for a splendid sunset display over the river.

Spend the night bar hopping, at least until the island shuts down around 11 p.m. Alternatively, find a good chill spot, sip a happy shake and take in the good vibes. While technically illegal in Laos, marijuana and other drugs are openly sold and consumed on Don Det. While their use is somewhat tolerated by the locals, do exercise discretion if you choose to partake.

Day 2

Lao people are up with the sun, and you’ll witness a spectacular sunrise on the east or “shady” side of the island if you can get up by 6 a.m. Grab breakfast at Kea’s and let someone else deal with the logistics and book a tour for the “small waterfall” (Liphi), kayaking and also dolphin watching. If you’re opposed to group tours, it is definitely possible to organize these activities on your own. The nearby Mr. Mo’s rents kayaks that you can take out to explore the areas between Don Det, Don Som and the mainland. Beware of the current and protect yourself from the sun.

You can rent a bicycle for 10,000 kip (around $1.25 USD) and cycle to Liphi Falls on the northwest side of Don Khon. Pay the 35,000 kip entrance fee, which will grant you access to the restaurant, viewing areas and bar near the beach where you can hang out in a hammock or swim (cautiously) at the base of the falls. Cycle, taking a tuk tuk or motorbike to the beach at the southwestern coast of Don Khon, and you’ll be greeted by boat drivers eager to take you out for an hour of dolphin sightseeing. There are very few Irawaddy dolphins left in the Mekong, so don’t be surprised if most of your time is spent searching in vein. My captain told me after 40 minutes passed, “Don’t worry, everybody sees at least one.” Sure enough, we spent the last quarter hour giddily watching and hearing the dome-headed dolphins breach and play.

The transportation options from Si Phan Don north to Pakse or south into Cambodia leave in the morning, so plan on staying at least one more night and jumping on the first ferry to the mainland. Guesthouses sell combination ferry/bus tickets. Immigration at the Cambodian border is easy, so don’t be swindled by a fixer trying to make a buck by “helping” with the paperwork. The border crossing is in the middle of nowhere, so make travel arrangements all the way to your final destination.

Since you are here, we would like to share our vision for the future of travel - and the direction Culture Trip is moving in.

Culture Trip launched in 2011 with a simple yet passionate mission: to inspire people to go beyond their boundaries and experience what makes a place, its people and its culture special and meaningful — and this is still in our DNA today. We are proud that, for more than a decade, millions like you have trusted our award-winning recommendations by people who deeply understand what makes certain places and communities so special.

Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.

Culture Trips are deeply immersive 5 to 16 days itineraries, that combine authentic local experiences, exciting activities and 4-5* accommodation to look forward to at the end of each day. Our Rail Trips are our most planet-friendly itineraries that invite you to take the scenic route, relax whilst getting under the skin of a destination. Our Private Trips are fully tailored itineraries, curated by our Travel Experts specifically for you, your friends or your family.

We know that many of you worry about the environmental impact of travel and are looking for ways of expanding horizons in ways that do minimal harm - and may even bring benefits. We are committed to go as far as possible in curating our trips with care for the planet. That is why all of our trips are flightless in destination, fully carbon offset - and we have ambitious plans to be net zero in the very near future.