Vibrant Osaka is Japan‘s third-largest city, and Dōtonbori is its dazzling entertainment district. Best known for its brightly lit signage running along the canal, the gaudiness entices you to hit the late-night shops and karaoke clubs, and then eat dinner – of ramen or takoyaki – at dawn.
Dōtonbori comes into its own at night, as the canal reflects its neon lights. A hub of social activity, this waterway cuts through the bustling Namba district. Walk along its adjacent Tonbori Riverwalk for plenty of shops, al fresco restaurants and live music performers. Stop at Dōtonbori Bridge to marvel at the giant, garish digital adverts, like a watery version of New York’s Times Square.
Walking along the Dōtonbori Canal, you’ll see a steady stream of yellow, open-air tourist boats. These are the Tonbori River Cruises, which take just 20 minutes to whisk you around the canal, so you can see the famous sights – such as the Glico running man sign (see below) – from a new perspective. You embark near Namba Station, where cruises depart every hour on the half hour.
Sōemoncho is the heart of the Dōtonbori area’s evening exuberance, with its plethora of bars, clubs and karaoke joints. Most of the restaurants are open until the early hours of the morning, so join the locals by recharging with traditional fast foods after you’ve worn yourself out singing and dancing. Slurp an early morning meal at Ramen Zundo-Ya Shinsaibashi, which is open round the clock.
The Hozenji Yokocho is a narrow, stone-paved street that leads to Hozenji Temple. In stark contrast with the rest of Dōtonbori, this lane evokes the ambiance of Osaka as it was in the Edo Period (1603-1867). It’s lined with 60 tiny family-run cafes, serving traditional Japanese food. Order okonomiyaki at Hozenji Sanpei for an authentic taste of Osaka – a patty of cabbage, flour and egg with your own meat and vegetables of choice.
This tranquil temple seems out of place in busy downtown, and makes a peaceful escape from the bustle. It was built in 1637 and is one of only two buildings in the area to have survived the Second World War. Pay a visit to Fudo Myoo, a moss-covered sculpture of a deity said to protect people against evil, conquer all demons and grant all wishes. You’ll see locals praying for their prosperity and splashing water as an offering to the deity.
This weird and wacky Chinese restaurant just off the Dōtonbori Canal is a must-visit for two reasons: the food is fantastic and the decor is… unique. Its walls are covered in moulds of body parts – breasts, bottoms and other things, including a shrine to the male member. If all that hasn’t put you off, you can delve into the menu of hundreds of authentic Chinese staples, served 24 hours a day.
The Glico Man is the symbol of south Osaka. This sign, advertising popular Japanese snack maker Glico, was put up in 1935 and remodelled in 2014, maintaining the old design but adding new LED lights and animations that change with the time of day. The best photo-op spots are on the adjacent Ebisu Bridge or across the river on the Tonbori Riverwalk.
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