Kansai: How to Spend a Long Weekend in Japan’s Ancient Prefectures

Niutsuhime-jinja Shrine, founded 1,700 years ago, is a designated Unesco World Heritage site
Niutsuhime-jinja Shrine, founded 1,700 years ago, is a designated Unesco World Heritage site | © Don Kennedy
View

Explore the cradle of Japanese civilisation and Buddhist traditions in the Nara and Wakayama prefectures, just a short way from Osaka and Kyoto.

Sacred peaks guarded by dragon deities, mountain trails walked by pilgrims for centuries, the ancient tombs of emperors and empresses – visiting Nara and Wakayama feels like stepping back into the Japan of historical scrolls and time-worn wood carvings.

The Kansai region of today – comprising the prefectures of Kyoto, Osaka, Shiga, Hyogo, Nara and Wakayama – is well served by trains, buses and ropeways, making it just as easy to enjoy a long weekend here as a weeks-long pilgrimage.

Friday

Famed for their ornate shrines and austere temples, the cities of Kyoto and Nara draw visitors from around the world. But one of Kansai’s most important and beautiful religious sites actually lies in Sakurai City, just south of Nara, where you’ll find plenty of spots to enjoy the region’s rich cultural – and culinary – traditions. Start by getting a JR-line train to Miwa station, about 30 minutes from Nara station.

Ohmiwa-jinja Shrine

Ohmiwa-jinja Shrine, near Miwa station, is believed to be Japan’s oldest shrine. Rising behind the elegant skyline is sacred Mount Miwa; wooded and mysterious, it is said to be the home of Omononushi-no-okami, one of the mythological creators of Japan. Since the mountain is located within the sacred area of the Ohmiwa-jinja Shrine, no one is allowed to harm the plants on the peak, so if you want to follow the path up the mountain, you’ll need to fill in a form at the shrine office first and be accompanied by a Japanese speaker. After all, you’ve essentially stepped into a sacred sanctuary.

Omononushi-no-okami is (among many things) the god of sake brewing, so it’s recommended to follow your shrine visit with a tour and tasting at a local sake brewery. Imanishi Sake Brewery, on the approach to Ohmiwa-jinja Shrine, has been in operation for more than 360 years. They also run Cafe Miwaza near the station; pick up lunch here, or try ice cream made with Japanese sake, before heading to your next destination.

Ohmiwa-jinja Shrine, on the Yamanobe-no-Michi walking trail, is said to be the oldest shrine in Japan | © Don Kennedy

Murouji Temple

From Miwa, walk 25 minutes, or take a train, to Sakurai station, changing to the Kintetsu line for Murouguchi-Ono. From here, it’s just a short bus ride to Murouji Temple, a deeply atmospheric temple that blends into the dense forest surrounding it. Murouji Temple is also known as Nyonin Koya, or Koyasan for women. The temples of nearby Koyasan were completely off limits to women until the late 19th century; this is because the Murouji temple, which is part of the same sect, has accepted female worshippers for many years.

The temple was established in the seventh century, but Mount Murou was a sacred place, linked to the dragon god Zennyo Ryuo, long before. Its precinct – which include Japan’s second-oldest five-storied pagoda and smallest outdoor structure, dating back to the ninth century – is quite spread out, leading you on a meditative walk through the ancient forest.

Inside the Kondo, in the precinct of Murouji Temple, you’ll find various significant Buddha structures made during the Heian period | © Don Kennedy

Kawai Brewery

From Murouguchi-Ono take a Kintetsu-line train to Yaginishiguchi station for a stop at this sake brewery. Set in a beautiful historic building in Imai-cho, in Kashihara, it’s a 10-minute walk from the station, on a picturesque street lined with 18th-century merchant houses, distinguished by their white walls and dark wood facades. Book your visit in advance, and not only will you be treated to a tasting of several varieties of sake, you’ll also be able to see the interior of one of these grand historic homes.

The picturesque Kawai sake brewery was established in the 18th century, during the Edo period | © Don Kennedy

NIPPONIA Tawaramoto Maruto Shoyu

A soy sauce brewery may not seem like an obvious place to spend the night, but Maruto Shoyu will win you over. Nara’s oldest soy sauce brewery closed due to shortages after World War II, after more than 250 years. Seventy years later, the grandson of the last owner revived the family business, renovating the historic buildings, restarting brewing and establishing a cafe, restaurant and shop showcasing regional produce.

He also turned some of the brewery, housed in a building that dates back 130 years, into comfortable rooms that are sympathetic to its history. Guests can enjoy an exquisite dinner or lunch focused on locally grown vegetables and, of course, high-quality soy sauce. Maruto Shoyu offers a pick-up and drop-off service from Tawaramoto station, on the Kintetsu line.

Maruto Shoyu is a family-run soy sauce brewery that’s 300 years old | © Don Kennedy

Saturday

After a delicious breakfast at Maruto Shoyu, take a Kintetsu train to Asuka station. If you get an early start, you can see the highlights of Asuka village and Yoshinocho in one day; for a more leisurely exploration, you can focus on just one.

Asuka village

Although an unassuming farming town today, nearly 1,500 years ago Asuka village was a hive of activity. Its cultural importance is so profound that at the end of the sixth century, this village became the first capital of Japan. Its scattered museums and archaeological sites are best explored by bike; you can rent one at Asuka or Kashihara Jingumae stations; alternatively, you can catch the Kame Bus tour if you prefer.

In Asuka village, there are many mysterious kofun – the ancient burial mounds of emperors, empresses and other powerful figures dating from around the seventh century. At Ishibutai Tumulus, you can actually enter a tomb, while the Takamatsuzuka Mural Museum explains the process of construction and excavation.

North of the kofun is Asukadera Temple, Japan’s oldest Buddhist temple. Founded in 596CE, it still houses a statue of Buddha made in 609CE – the oldest one in the country. Asuka village is viewed as the birthplace of Buddhism in Japan, laying the groundwork for the following centuries of Japanese civilisation. Much of the Man’yoshu, the oldest surviving collection of poetry in Japan, was written here; pay a quick visit to the Nara Prefecture Complex of Manyo Culture near Asukadera Temple to learn more.

Founded in 596CE, Asuka-dera is Japan’s oldest Buddhist temple and still houses a statue of Buddha built in 609CE | © Don Kennedy

Yoshinoyama

From Asuka station, take a Kintetsu train to Yoshino station, then hike or take the ropeway further up Mount Yoshino from the town. Stop at Hyotaro to try a local dish that spans Nara and Wakayama, called Kakinoha sushi – pressed, salted mackerel or salmon sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves.

In Hyotaro, stop for a local delicacy of Kakinoha sushi: pressed, salted mackerel or salmon sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves | © Don Kennedy

Best known for its spectacular hanami (cherry-blossom viewing) each spring, Yoshinoyama is a sacred place for Shugendo, a religion unique to Japan – founded 1,300 years ago by En no Gyoja – that combines mountain worship (nature worship) with Buddhism, Taoism and Shintoism. Kinpusenji Temple is the head temple of this religion, and its wooden buildings are a designated Unesco World Heritage site. It’s known for its yamabushi, ascetics who wander the mountains, enduring physical and spiritual trials – including meditating under waterfalls – to strengthen and purify their souls.

Spend the rest of your afternoon enjoying the natural beauty of Yoshinoyama, before heading to Chikurin-in Gunpo-en for dinner and an overnight stay. This elegant hot-spring inn, set in the grounds of a temple, has an impressive pedigree – even for Japan.

There are more than 30,000 cherry trees of about 200 species planted around Yoshinoyama | © Don Kennedy

Sunday

Head to Yoshinoguchi station after breakfast at Chikurin-in Gunpo-en, then take the Wakayama line to Hashimoto and change to the Nankai-Koya line for a short hop to Kudoyama station. This is the gateway to Koyasan, one of the holiest places in Japan, where more than 100 monasteries radiate out from the head temple of Koyasan Shingon Buddhism. Pick up a takeaway lunch from the picturesque wooden station, then hit the pilgrimage trail.

Jison-in Temple

Twenty minutes’ walk from the station is Jison-in Temple, where you can buy a book to stamp at every temple along the route. You can also buy ema (wooden prayer plaques) and other offerings with an image of a breast attached. While Koyasan was a place where women were forbidden to enter, Jison-in has been accepting women for more than 1,000 years. Over the centuries, the temple became a popular place to pray for women’s health, hence the unusual offerings.

Jison-in Temple signifies the start of the pilgrimage route of Koyasan | © Don Kennedy

Choishi-michi

It takes seven to eight hours to complete the 20km (12mi) Choishi-michi, the route marked by 180 stones (ishi) set at intervals of around 109m (358ft) – a unit of measurement called a cho – for its entire length. The trail passes through rice paddies and bamboo groves before plunging into the forest, where pines and cedars have cast welcome shade on weary pilgrims for generations.

If you’re not quite up to eight hours of hiking, you can tackle a section of the route. By taking a Nankai Koya-line train up to Kami-Kosawa station and then joining the Choishi-michi cuts your walking time to roughly five hours; going on to Kii-Hosokawa station drops it to three hours. Whichever route you choose, pause at Yatate-chaya to refuel with tea and a Koyasan specialty, yakimochi (grilled rice cakes), and to say thank you to the deities of travellers at the nearby Ryokujizo statue.

The Choishi-michi trail starts at the Jison-in temple and goes all the way up to the Konpon Daito | © Don Kennedy

Rengejo-in temple stay

The trail ends at the huge red Daimon, the Great Gate marking the entrance to Koyasan proper. Make your way to Rengejo-in Temple to experience an overnight temple stay (or shukubo). You can join the monks in meditation at 5pm, before enjoying an exquisite shojin-ryori meal (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) at 6pm. After dinner, stroll around the quiet town to see some of the most important buildings – the Daimon Gate, Danjo Garan Sacred Temple Complex and Kongobu-ji Head Temple – softly illuminated.

Stay a night at Rengejo-in Temple and experience meditation alongside the temple’s monks | © Don Kennedy

Monday

Check out after the 6am service and warming traditional breakfast, then make the most of your early start by exploring Koyasan’s most popular sights before the day-trippers arrive.

Okuno-in

Half an hour’s walk from Rengejo-in Temple is Ichinohashi, the bridge marking the entrance to Okuno-in Temple – and the border between the secular and spiritual worlds. On one side are buildings and roads; on the other, dense trees and close-clustered stone memorials. In the early hours of the day, you’ll have the temple’s atmospheric grounds almost to yourself.

The area makes up Japan’s largest burial ground, and there are memorials to important figures including Kobo Daishi (founder of Koyasan) and Oda Nobunaga (a renowned Japanese warrior) here. More than 10,000 LED lanterns are dedicated in the Torodo Temple, the worship hall of the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi. Two of the four oil lanterns in the hall have been lit for more than 1,000 years, and he’s said to have been in a state of eternal meditation since he entered in 835CE.

Kobo Daishi, the late founder of Shingon Buddhism, is said to be praying in eternal meditation at Okuno-in temple | © Don Kennedy

Koyasan town

One of the most important religious sites in Koyasan town is Kongobu-ji Temple, the head temple of Koyasan Shingon Buddhism. It’s known for its graceful screen paintings and remarkable rock garden, which is the largest in Japan. Nearby Danjo-garan is regarded as one of the most sacred places in Koyosan, though, as legend has it, Kobo Daishi was the first to begin construction when he founded Koyasan. The vermilion-lacquered Konpon Daito is the most impressive building in the precincts, but the whole site is interesting to explore – especially in autumn, when the bright maple leaves create an arresting scene.

After exploring the temples, head to Kadohama Gomatofu Sohonpo, which specialises in sesame tofu, for an early lunch. Try one of the multi-dish kaiseki courses for a filling, protein-rich lunch.

If you’d like to see another ancient pilgrimage route, follow the 2km (1mi) path from the Daimon Gate to Nyonin-do Hall, the last remaining women’s temple on Koyasan. Though the ban on women entering Koyasan was overturned in the 1870s, full restrictions weren’t lifted until 1905, with the seven Nyonin-do temples around the edges of town the closest female pilgrims could get. From here you can follow the Fudozaka trail for about 50 minutes to reach Gokurakubashi station, or take the bus to Koyasan station, then the ropeway down to Gokurakubashi.

Kongobu-ji Head Temple is renowned as the centre of Koyasan Shingon Buddhism | © Don Kennedy

Niutsuhime-jinja Shrine

Take the train from Gokurakubashi Station to Kudoyama Station where the sightseeing train Tenku also stops. Then it’s a five- to six-hour round trip from Kudoyama Station on foot, over to Niutsuhime Shrine and back to Kutoyama station. Alternatively, disembark at Kami-Kosawa station and hike to the shrine, then follow the Choishi-michi to Kudoyama (three to four hours in total).

There are excellent views from the train window riding the Nankai Line | © Nankai Electric Railway Co. Ltd.

Niutsuhime-jinja Shrine was built 1,700 years ago is dedicated to the goddess who lent Koyasan to Kobo Daishi; its sloping eaves, red-lacquer and half-moon bridges are fine examples of Kasuga shrine architecture. Located in a serene mountain setting, whose Shinto deity is said to have helped Kobo Daishi establish his Buddhist monastery here, Niutsuhime-jinja Shrine is a perfect example of the complex, mysterious and spiritual appeal of Wakayama.

This is the location for the formal worship of Niutsuhime-jinja led by a Shinto priest | © Don Kennedy

There’s no better way to get acquainted with ancient Japan than by exploring its wonderful prefectures that are steeped in history and tradition.

Countermeasures for COVID-19 are carried out well in all of the areas mentioned in this article.

Cookies Policy

We and our partners use cookies to better understand your needs, improve performance and provide you with personalised content and advertisements. To allow us to provide a better and more tailored experience please click "OK"