The story of Srinagar is sometimes troubled, but the magic of this lake city always endures. Watching shikara boats cutting through the morning mists over Dal Lake is still one of the most moving experiences in India. As the sun climbs, wander to timeless mosques and chinar-shaded gardens that were once the playthings of Mughal emperors. These top hotels and best places to stay in Srinagar – bookable on Culture Trip – bring visitors close to this majesty, often with fabulous Kashmiri food to go with a comfortable bed for the night.
The name says it all at this stylish property, gazing out over the mirror-flat waters of Dal Lake from a dreamy vantage point on the east shore, edged in by Mughal gardens. Rooms full of imperial fabrics and Kashmiri rugs are angled towards the lake, drawing eyes out over the waters. The best rooms have private terraces facing the lake, offering a tantalising hint of the lavish lifestyle of Mughal emperors.
On the hillside above the northeast shore, Fortune Resort Heevan takes the Raj-era bungalow and upgrades it, bringing in lavish comforts but retaining the graceful simplicity of these once-grand houses in the hills. Airy, open interiors and expansive rooms and suites are full of mellow timber, artfully placed Kashmiri weaving and embroidery and fretwork screens, with big windows to let in the Himalayan light.
A great location at the entrance to the historic heart of Srinagar is just the first plus at this smart, modern property on the edge of the Kashmir Golf Club. Rooms with patchwork friezes of Kashmiri patterns and mountains of cushions grab glimpses of misty hills that get increasingly impressive as you climb the building. There’s good eating, too – the poolside barbecue serving meaty Kashmiri dishes is a particular treat.
Close by the Jhelum River but south of the noise of downtown, Four Points stands out amongst the hotels in Srinagar. It’s a striking modern creation, blending Kashmiri details with neoclassical stonework and modernist fretwork. Rooms are equally striking, mixing late-Raj motifs and an uncluttered modern vibe with private balconies where you can sit out and enjoy the evening light. Dinner in the stylish chequerboard dining room is highly recommended.
North of Dal Lake, where urban Srinagar breaks down into villages and farmland, this cottage resort draws the eye to the snow-capped peaks beyond the Kashmir Valley. Spread around a serene orchard garden, cottages contain cavernous bedrooms with wooden floors, along with rugs and bedspreads in eye-catching Kashmiri patterns. There’s also fine dining, both indoors and outside by the pool, at tables with gingham cloths.
On a loop of the twisting Jhelum River, the Lemon Tree fits perfectly into Srinagar, with its mock-Tudor timbers and white plaster. From the outside, this could be another of the city’s vintage mansions – but inside, rooms are smart and modern, paying homage to the setting with chain-stitched bedspreads in Kashmiri patterns. It’s a tasteful stay just south of the historic centre, where the city gets greener and calmer.
Grand is an understatement when it comes to this opulent hotel, backed by a sweep of forested hills and fronted by a 9-hole golf course running down to the lakeshore. This extravagant Edwardian mansion was constructed by Maharaja Pratap Singh in 1910, and brims with period majesty. Sleeping options range from cottages in the gardens to lavish suites full of rich fabrics and upholstery. Make time for tea on the lawn and a peg of whisky in the wood-lined bar.
The most evocative overnight stop in Srinagar has always been a stay on a Dal Lake houseboat, and the Wangnoo group offer some of the best. These gorgeous timber-lined floating villas sit serenely on Nagin Lake, decorated inside and out with intricately carved walnut panels that fill every space, from the bedrooms to the waterside balconies. An added plus: these are the only houseboats in town with central heating and air conditioning.
The Grand Mamta has a great location on the southern edge of old Srinagar, where the channels draining from Dal Lake come together before flowing into the Jhelum River. Set in a walled compound with a courtyard garden, the hotel is calm and comfortable, with big, slightly old-fashioned rooms that are popular with families. It’s an easy-going overnight stop, and handy for exploring the historic bazaars and papier-mâché-adorned mosques in the old city.
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