All Over La Jolla And Waimea Bay: Surfin' USA

Kate Gliven explores how surfing and surf culture have developed from a counter-cultural regional recreation into its present form, today serving as one of the most popular sea sports in existence, attracting professionals from across the world.

Originally an ancient Polynesian tradition that was nearly eliminated by European missionaries in the 19th century, surfing was popularised as a sport in the Californian counter-culture of the 50s and 60s before finally coming of age in its spiritual home of Hawaii during the 1970s when the first major competitions attracted a new breed of progressive international surfers.
Far from the continental states of America, the volcanic archipelago of Hawaii – a chain of eight main islands – resides within the Polynesian group of the Pacific Ocean. Since its annexation and establishment of its statehood in 1959, Hawaii promised Americans a share in its exotic culture and an easily attainable tropical lifestyle. With the eminence of its beaches and favourable climate, Hawaiian resorts such as Waikiki quickly became entrenched within the tourist industry. Whilst the glossy aesthetic of American tourism has often been said to overshadow the indigenous way of life on the islands, there are instances in the state’s history where the mêlée of cultures has produced something that is dependent on both. One of those moments is the development of surfing into a professional sport, as put across in the 2008 documentary film, Bustin’ Down The Door, adapted from pro-surfer Shaun Tomson’s book of the same name.

Developed from a spiritual art of wave-riding, surfing in Hawaii captivated its audience of American tourists throughout the twentieth century. Bustin’ Down The Door charts how a group of young, émigré waveriders from Australia and South Africa began to forsake the showy glamour of Waikiki and Honolulu for the North Shore of O’ahu island, bringing renown to the now-famous surf spots of Waimea Bay, Sunset Beach and Banzai Pipeline. These Free Ride revolutionaries triumphed in the first invitational competitions of the 1970s, transforming a leisure pastime into a professional sport. These areas of Hawaii with their world class waves would develop into the hosts of professional events, including the Pipeline Masters that serves as the focal point of teen surfing drama, Blue Crush (2002).

Yet, along with the successes of pro-surfing’s ambitious pioneers came the difficulties created by the clash of their youthful bravado in ego-led marketing campaigns with the more demure Hawaiian culture. When a young Australian surfer named Wayne ‘Rabbit’ Bartholomew declared his intentions to revolutionise and modernise the sport in a 1976 edition of Surfer Magazine, his article angered many people who perceived it as culturally insensitive towards Hawaiians. The issue was only resolved when well-respected Hawaiian lifeguard and surfer Eddie Aikau took it upon himself to even out local grievances by organising a ho’oponopono, an ancient Hawaiian practice of communal reconciliation, at the Kuilima Hotel.
Surfing documentaries are one medium through which surf culture has defined itself and charted its evolving history as both a sport and an art form. The narrative of documentaries such as Bustin’ Down The Door (2008) suggests that now in the professional era, the surfing federation strives to act with consideration for Hawaiian culture, responding reciprocally to the warm kindness of the Aloha spirit.
By Kate Gliven

Since you are here, we would like to share our vision for the future of travel - and the direction Culture Trip is moving in.

Culture Trip launched in 2011 with a simple yet passionate mission: to inspire people to go beyond their boundaries and experience what makes a place, its people and its culture special and meaningful — and this is still in our DNA today. We are proud that, for more than a decade, millions like you have trusted our award-winning recommendations by people who deeply understand what makes certain places and communities so special.

Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.

Culture Trips are deeply immersive 5 to 16 days itineraries, that combine authentic local experiences, exciting activities and 4-5* accommodation to look forward to at the end of each day. Our Rail Trips are our most planet-friendly itineraries that invite you to take the scenic route, relax whilst getting under the skin of a destination. Our Private Trips are fully tailored itineraries, curated by our Travel Experts specifically for you, your friends or your family.

We know that many of you worry about the environmental impact of travel and are looking for ways of expanding horizons in ways that do minimal harm - and may even bring benefits. We are committed to go as far as possible in curating our trips with care for the planet. That is why all of our trips are flightless in destination, fully carbon offset - and we have ambitious plans to be net zero in the very near future.