Guide to Real Scottish Food Beyond Haggis

Langoustines | © Sumayya Unman

When exploring the history of Scottish cuisine, there are perhaps two distinct ‘eras’ that we can look upon. There are those that predate a modern consciousness, from the times of pillaging foreign invaders and armed assistance from our nearest neighbours. Then there are the times of economic migration to these shores by large numbers of foreign peoples. Both have influenced the Scottish palate and shaped much of the history and genealogy of the modern country. Interspersed with Scots’ adventures and migration overseas, and the role in many a British Army campaign, it becomes easy to see why the food landscape of Scotland is a confluence of peoples and cultures combined with abundant produce.
When the Vikings invaded Scotland in the 8th century, they brought with them many of the methods that remain synonymous with Scotland and Scandinavia to this day, such as smoking, salting, curing and pickling. Indeed, many people would probably answer ‘smoked salmon’ when asked for a food they associate with Scotland, as the rivers used to teem with these majestic creatures before overfishing decimated the population. These days, just about every produce associated with Scotland is smoked in some way. Venison, duck, grouse, mussels, scallops and cheese all work wonderfully, and if you think outside the box I wonder if the early whisky makers knew what flavour they were imparting onto their uisque beath? However, it is another smoked fish that is a particular staple of the Scots kitchen: haddock, cold, smoked over wood or peat and then traditionally cooked with milk in some way. Cullen skink, the iconic soup of smoked haddock, milk and onions, from the small Aberdeenshire fishing village of Cullen, is a perfect introduction to this wonderful ingredient found in many restaurants all over Scotland.

Cullen skink | © Sumayya Unman

In the years following the Second World War, it was mass migration from the Indian subcontinent that exerted its influence on the Scots palate, with a huge number of people from partitioned India and the new nation of Pakistan travelling to the cities of Scotland looking for work and a new life. It was natural for these new immigrants to bring the cuisine of home with them. Soon, heady spice was becoming the norm in Scottish cities. It is hardly surprising that these intoxicating flavours took hold so well in Scotland, especially when the legend behind kedgeree is considered. According to the story, kedgeree is essentially an adaptation from the ktchiri recipe, which was brought home during the time of the Raj in the 19th century by a Scottish regiment, and adapted for local ingredients. There has clearly always been a taste for spice among the Scots. Glasgow still lays a strong claim to be the curry capital of Britain and, while there are several rivals, the spice map of the city is a rich, heady and exotic trip. There are still many traditional ‘curry houses’ such as the Koh-I-Noor and Ashoka, while more recent favourites such as Koolba use the wonderful Scots larder inventively. Although it may sound somewhat gimmicky, the recent appearance of haggis pakora in many an ‘Indian’ restaurant is actually a fusion that works. However, for one of the best Glasgow spice experiences you need to leave the city centre and head south of the river to Victoria Road and Kebabish. The giant grill is expertly manned and its rich smells can be sensed from a good distance away. Coupled with traditional Desi favourites like nihari, haleem and paya, a visit to Kebabish is certainly worth the two stops on the train from Glasgow Central.

The food map of Scotland is filled with both heritage flavours and cosmopolitan influences employing the amazing natural larder. The flavours are not so much fusion as a confluence of centuries of influence.