Why Is Edinburgh Called Auld Reekie?

Edinburgh From the Castle
Edinburgh From the Castle | © Dun.can / Flickr
Deborah Chu

Before Edinburgh was being lauded as the ‘Athens of the North,’ it was contending with a rather more… unsavoury reputation. The Auld Reekie, as Scotland’s capital city is still sometimes affectionately called today, means ‘Old Smokey‘ in the Scots dialect. But how did beautiful Edinburgh gain this rather unfortunate nickname in the first place?

Though the city may be renowned for its architectural splendour and the beauty of its natural surroundings today, the situation was much different in the 17th century. Beginning in the late Middle Ages, the entire city (today encompassing Edinburgh’s Old Town neighbourhood) was enclosed by a wall. These fortifications and the Nor’ Loch, a body of water to the north of the city, ensured that Edinburgh was well protected against threat of invasion.

Edinburgh

This security, however, came at a price. The Nor’ Loch, which today is the site of the picturesque Princes Street Gardens, was unfortunately the drainage site for the citizenry’s waste and effluence, as well as a popular site for dumping dead bodies. The foul smell that would thus rise from its stagnant waters was overwhelming, to say the least.

John Knox’s House, Edinburgh
Dowie’s Tavern, Libberton’s Wynd

These days, residents of Edinburgh have largely reclaimed this insalubrious title, with tour groups and cafés proudly adopting the nickname as their own. So the next time you’re climbing Arthur’s Seat and marvelling at the beauty of this city, take a second to try and imagine what it must have looked like centuries ago, and thank the heavens for how far Edinburgh has come since its reeking past.

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