This Kreuzberg Kiez (aka neighborhood) is one of the most beautiful in the city, with the Parisian-like roads, café-lined streets, and a historic market square. Many an hour can be spent wandering the cobbled streets of this charming area, and with so many places to explore, we give a helping hand as to where to start in this unique corner of the city.
With an extensive collection of fresh products, from the classic fish, cheese, flower and butcher stalls to more specific deli stands with both local organic and international speciality offerings, this 2,500-square-meter market hall is very much engrained in the history of the Kiez. As well as the stalls, there are cafés, restaurants, and wine traders in the market, with many locals sat outside with a coffee on summer mornings. Not stopping at fresh foods, there is a bookshop in the historic market hall as well as frequent art exhibitions. For a glimpse into the character of the Kiez, this is definitely a place to stop by.
Another Country is one of the famed English bookshops of Berlin, but more than that, it is a truly extraordinary hideaway for any book lover. With piles of pages stacked on every wall, there is the feeling of having stumbled into a book fanatic’s own home, with a love of the written word radiating from the jumbled rooms. With an extensive lending library, and cosy corners in which to sit and escape in a book, the owner Sophie Raphaeline has established a place for discussion, learning, and appreciation for the art of writing. She hosts dinners and readings and is to be found sitting at the desk overseeing this quiet and wonderful little world of books.
As one of the finest cocktail bars in the area, Limonadier stands out for its unique and creative recipes. Pioneering the art of bartending and the intricacy and innovation possible with cocktail recipes, Limonadier offers a special and memorable experience. Their knowledgeable and truly enthused bartenders are on hand to guide your selection, whether that be an espresso martini or a Kaleidoscop (with rum, raspberry, and violet among the ingredients). A beautiful setting for a quiet solo cocktail at a bar or a group excursion, Limonadier is top of the list in the Kiez.
Marheinekeplatz Flea Market
Like many of the squares in Berlin, Sundays mean that flea market stalls emerge out of nowhere, bringing gifts of obscurities and curiosities to light. The market square in the Bergmannkiez is no different, with a small and wonderful collection of stalls. What’s more, and perhaps a selling point in flea market ventures, it is both manageable and enjoyable, which is no small feat. With a varied collection of stands, from antique prints to records, the Marheinekeplatz flea market is one worth visiting, not just for the fact that it is possible to float through the market without hefty crowds, but for the selection at the stands themselves, not to mention the beautiful buildings of the Kiez making it ever worthwhile.
Just to the west of the Bergmannkiez lies Viktoriapark, one of the most beautiful green escapes in the city. A little climb past a waterfall takes you to the top of a hill where you can look out over the city on the steps of a national monument. In summer, Viktoriapark is a beautiful place to linger and watch the sunset over the city, with the Golgatha beer garden well worth visiting, and in days of snow offers itself as an ideal slope site for sledging.
English Theatre in Berlin
The English Theatre in Berlin the home of an extraordinary pocket of innovation and diversity. With everything from comedy showcases to embassy talks, from harpists to improvised theatre, there is no shortage in the selection that this small theatre offers. It is the only performing arts center in the city that is exclusively focused on English and strives to present a varied and open calendar of events. Find their performances either tucked away in a cosy courtyard of the Kiez, or out and around the city in their interactive performances.
t Berlin is a perfect cosy corner for any one in search of a pause in the neighborhood, and a place of pilgrimage for any tea aficionados in the area. They serve handpicked, whole leaf, mountain-grown (and award-winning, no less) teas, and if that enriched description was not enticing enough, they also serve tea-based cocktails. t Berlin host a number of events from book launches, art exhibitions, comedy nights, and naturally, regular tea tastings. A recommended place, both for those with a tendency toward tea fanaticism and those without.
Four floors of sonic treasures, this record store has extensive collections of both current and back stock records. Primarily electronic music, with representations of everything from neotrance to minimal techno, this is a haven for music fanatics. Whether in search of a rarity or looking to educate yourself, Space Hall has stacks upon stacks of offerings as one of the best record collections in the city, and with listening tables around the shop, it is very easy to lose track of time amid these surreally extensive shelves.
In search of coffee and cake at the cemetery gates? Look no further. While the Bergmannkiez has many coffee haunts and cafés to linger and look out upon the crowds, Café Strauss is truly unique in its location. Located in an old funeral parlor at the Friedrichswerderscher Friedhof, an historic cemetery dating back to 1844, Café Strauss is one of a kind not just in the Kiez but the city itself. Whilst the streets around Bergmannstraße are busy with people, step away to this quiet corner for an extraordinary stillness as well as exceptional coffee and cake.
At the northeastern corner of the Kiez lies the beautiful neo-gothic Südstern church. Peculiarly, it now stands as the center of a roundabout. It was originally a garrison church and built between 1894 and 1897. It is an important symbol of the district, with the neighborhood streets converging and leading off towards Neukölln. Take a look inside during their visiting hours or continue journeying onwards out of the Kiez, walking up to Hasenheide Park, taking a look back down the tree-lined street running up to the church – a particularly beautiful view when framed by autumn leaves.
By Harriet Blackmore